Sunday, September 23, 2012

South through Germany and Austria into Italy

Leaving Dover... with a coffee
After a break of a year we are out on the road again… and with travel comes the journey in both its physical and emotional context. As with the vast majority of travellers we are not really sure if we are looking for or running away from something. This blog is simply a mechanism to exercise this emotional side freezing it in time so it can be revisited… you are welcome to join us.

There is so much to do and see in the world and if you are lucky enough to be in a position to be able to there is no substitute for getting out there. With our year long trip in the USA a fading memory (we have the blog : )  we are planning to spend a few months roaming around Europe.
Koln (Cologne) Germany

Travelling with no real plans, timescales (home for Christmas), guide books or must see’s or do’s is a new departure for us. We have only been gone a week and are less than 400 miles from home but it is like we have already crossed a huge gulf separating us from everything that is familiar. Although you can see the coast of  France as clearly as the white cliffs of Dover from the ferry the twenty something miles - a thin blue line if there ever was one - has done a remarkable job of keeping Jonny Foreigner and all his funny little ways out of our British culture. OK… so we may like a croissant with our cappuccino and a glass of pinot grigio with our pizza but we British are no closer to being Europeans than we were when Den first went to Germany in 1971. The only thing we have felt completely in our comfort zone is the approach to motorhomes… neither of us have felt that good as it takes time to adjust – everything is different

On the banks of the Rhine
The Europeans, the Germans in particular, have a motorhome culture unlike anything we have experienced in either the UK or the US for that matter. It is not camping in the US context which reflects the scale of the country and the pioneer heritage of its people… big open wilderness, forests, huge pitches with picnic bench / fire grate, log camp fires, BBQ’s and toasted marshmallows and open to all campers with some areas reserved for tents etc. The UK version of camping covers the whole spectrum but more often than not is commercial sites which are often no more that grassy car parks with motorhomes, caravan’s, and tents squeezed together…  a TV room, cold old toilet blocks and big red fire extinguishers to put that camp fire out…‘Health and Safety’ : )  The European version is neither. OK they do have the British style holiday camp sites in tourist areas but they also have ‘Camper stops’ literally everywhere. They only cater for self contained motorhomes, (have own facilities) and are often in the strangest of places.

Schwabisch Gmund
Camperstops can be found in city centres often a specific area of a larger car park, parks, farms, vineyards, restaurants’ even in peoples garden. For example today 17th Sept for E9 (9 Euro = £7) we are camped in the owner’s garden in the little town of Oberaudorf, Germany and plugged into his garage for power and water. From our window we have fantastic views across the Austrian border and the Alps. So far we have camped within 500M of the centre of Koln and Worms and literally on the banks of the Rhine for around E10 a night. Before you pack your bags its good to visit the cities / towns this way but it can be a very tiring experience. Take Braubach,  pretty little old town on banks of the Rhine – great walk but when it came to sleeping we discovered the downside. In the flat we are used to some road noise but within 200M of our motorhome there were Rhine barges, heavy road traffic (lorries) and main line trains running all night! You quickly learn to be more observant when you first arrive before you decide to stay the night.

So with good value Camperstops, lower cost diesel (why?) and Aldi for the food staples this leg of the trip into Italy is looking good. Food highlights include big pastries, exotic breads, fresh figs and the German beer. Jane’s home cooking has quickly resumed where she left off in the RV. Cooking a full meal in such a small a space is a skill that takes a bit of mastering and a lot of organisation.
So as it supposed to be about our travels the route we followed;

Austrain Alps
Dover – Calais then Arques, FranceAachen,  Koln, Braubach, Worms, Schwabisch Gmund, Lechbruck am sea (2nights) Oberaudorf, all in  Germany across the alps via Innsbrock Austria and into ITALY

Jane’s best bits – travelling next to the Rhine with views of the amazing castles, palaces and forts on route, German old towns with cobbold streets, doms (cathedrals) and clock towers, availability of fresh figs (lots of them and very cheap).

And not so best bits – graffiti everywhere, strange smells from the fields and some noisy surroundings at night!!

Den loved German efficiency… OK I  accept that it is not a clean as was in the 70’s (graffiti) Sat Nav co-ordinates for camperstops, the mighty Rhine - pretty in places - but still true trans-european highway and the slow onset of fresh alpine scenery and air.

Oberaudorf  - German Ausrian border
I could live without… empting the waste tank! It is every bit as much fun as it sounds. Then there was a couple of sleepless nights the worst being the free camperstop at Schwabisch Gmund about 30KM east of Stuttgart. It looked good but turned into a meeting point for the local youth until about 2am only for Saturday morning car boot sale to start at 5am.

Das gut

Happy Birthday        Kate (11th Sept), Phyllis (23rd Sept) and Pat (29th Sept) we are thinking of you but with no regular Internet sorted out no Skype so far.

Den and Jane X

PS Strange to think that Chris will out there somewhere in Italy as our paths cross.

23/09/12 - Delay for this 1st posting this as we have been sorting out our Internet connection... We now have an Italian SIM (called TIM) but can not understand the information web page to do anything with it (top it up etc) so for now it is working but does not seem to like Skype.

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